The Agony and the Ecstacy

Oh, for a beach in the back of beyond!


** This was my very first article for 'i' in the lifestyle section of the Manila Bulletin. It was printed on May 5, 2006.


How far will you go to escape the stress of work? These days, when most people’s notion of vacation has attenuated to what is expedient and convenient, there are still those who would seek a more adventurous expedition. We, being workaholics with the sadistic habit of mixing pleasure with work, found a perfect destination that will quench your thirst for adventure – Northern Aurora.

Early morning trip. With designer Kenneth Chua and Brazilian model Tatiana

We left Manila early in the morning to dodge the morning traffic. With the impending lengthy travel it will also allow us to maximize daylight to appreciate better the view on the way. We made special arrangements to get picked up in Cabanatuan by an experienced driver to navigate the road.

The trip is definitely not for the impatient and weak-hearted for it took us approximately 10 to 12 hours from Cabanatuan to reach the place, minus the stopovers we had to take to stretch a bit, take a leak, and loose up ourselves from the unnerving ride. For hours we braved the rough and sharply angulated zigzagging dirt roads that were so narrow you can see beyond the precipice. Riding the bumpy and uneven terrain resembled a roller coaster ride.

One of the 15 streams we had to cross.

Of course, our arduous travel didn’t remain unrewarded. As we excurse the 470-kilometer distance away from our dear metropolis, we were able to view the picturesque landscape of the countryside and experience the magnificent virgin forests to the Sierra Madre mountain range with its enormous trees and rich undergrowth. It was like the typical Indiana Jones adventure as we went further, crossing streams that flow from the crevices of the mountain. It was honestly great at first, but after hours traversing about 13 mountains, crossing more than 15 streams and seeing nothing but vegetation and rock formations the trip can become quite tedious.

with shan plameras

However, upon reflection, the travel resembles a ritual that gradually detaches you from the mundane world of the city life. The more you become anxious of the trip, the more you get frustrated until you finally release yourself from all your concerns and simply enjoy being carried away by the hypnotizing stretches of coconut plantations and the mesmerizing idyllic charms of the rural communities. Towards the latter part of the journey, we were slowly aroused by the glimpse of white sand beaches that remind us of the exciting discoveries that await us.

Late that night, we reached the quiet town of Casiguran, the biggest and most central of the three municipalities in Northern Aurora and will provide better access to the two other towns of Dinalungan and Dilasag.

There we stayed in Bulo, a 2.8-hectare compound owned by the clan of former mayor Estevez, located in Brgy. Calangcuasan. It has four rooms that can accommodate two to three persons at the rate of P350 per night and a bigger room that can accommodate four to five persons at the rate of P500 per night. The compound is five to 10 minutes away from the center of the town where you can purchase your supplies. The staff can make special arrangements to have someone pick you up in Cabanatuan and guide you to the different places in Northern Aurora. In fact, they even made arrangements to secure our safety during our stay.

The following morning, despite the jarring long journey, we dragged our languid bodies right after breakfast to the van that will carry us to our first stop. On our way, we were slowly revitalized by the essence of the natural environment around us. The lush green trees rose high above the ground with their branches interlocking like arms that let in a minimal amount of sunlight, producing a dramatic effect that sends chills down our spines. The red earth boundaries of the dirt road were interspersed with all colors of vegetation. By the time we reached our stop we were completely recharged and looking forward to what was in store for us.

We got off the van and walked a few meters until we reached a clearing and were awestruck by the sight before us as we strode the white sands of Casapsapan Beach. The pristine beach stretches kilometers away with it clear pacific waters glistening under the sun. The white sand beaches lie bare and unspoiled, still exhibiting the ripples of the waves undulating above it on a high tide. We were left astonished by the miraculous confluence of the lake and the ocean and the refreshing sea breeze that cools the heat of the benign sun.

The pristine beach stretches kilometers away with it clear pacific waters glistening under the sun.

Can you see the ripple marks?

The beach outing was furthered by the sumptuous lunch of red juicy lobster and crabs provided by our hosts, Michael and Cathy. Aurora is well known for the fresh seafoods they harvest daily. (A kilo of lobster only costs P150.) By end of the day, as we returned to Bulo, we all realized that for the beach alone the trip was worth it.

with my editor, Joyce Fernandez

Brazilian model, Tiago

There are other places to visit in the town of Casiguran. There are the unadulterated beaches of Ontoc, Dilipot and Sto. Nino point, with gigantic waves that will surely delight the surfers and, like Casapsapan Beach, they are also ideal for snorkeling and diving. There is the Maiinit Spring where live red prawns dwell and the San Ildefonso Falls that can be reached an hour by motorboat from the port of Brgy Estevez also in Casiguran. The town is also well known as a pilgrimage site during the Lenten Season for the miraculous shrine of the Nuestra Senora dela Ermita located in a chapel in the mountains.

The town of Casiguran alone has a huge tourism potential if only enough funds will be channeled for the development of the necessary infrastructure that will make it more accessible. Its development will certainly boost the country’s tourism, as it will definitely be an irresistible attraction with global appeal. By June, Dinadiawan in Casigurasan will be constructing a tower that will make the area WiFi like the neighboring region of central Aurora. Next year, there’s a plan to construct a small airport that will answer the problem of transportation. Hopefully, the development of the province will carry on and lead to the potential benefits it augurs.